11. How to adjust the tension/sensitivity?
are 4 (four) tension screws located on the coaxial
unit, just around the "rubber
(These screws are in Metric M6x1.0 - 20mm long).
rest is factory set to accept MINIMUM
13 lbs of weight on the rest top.
To add more tension,
turn/tighten each tension screw
very bit, clockwise. To
reduce the tension, turn the tension
screws a very bit, counter clockwise. You
might need to hold the counter
nut in position with a spanner
while you are turning the tension screw with
the allen wrench. (a set of spanner and allen
wrench are included in the package)
standard procedure is,
after loosening the counter nuts &
screws, I will tighten the tension screws clockwise by bare hands, then
check the joystick operation and how much the rest top can accept vertical
weight. And to make sure that the end tip of
the tension screws go right into the
"slots" on the teflon/pressure plate. If it is
still too loose, I would add tension on
each screw, operating the joystick again
(up/down/left/right), until I find the
"best setting" and
get a solid and uniform feel/force to
operate the joystick.
Basically the tension screws must push
the "sliding plates" & teflon plate
in the inside of the coaxial unit. If the tension is
too loose, the rest top would have
some slop/play. Vice versa, if the tension is too
tight, the joystick operation will be
Then I will tighten the counter
nuts, in a moderate
tightness only, and check the
joystick's operation again. I use a certain
weight (a 13 lbs steel block) on the
rest top for this, but you can also push the
rest top down, "by feel" only. (or
put your rifle on the rest top). --- Please remember that most factory/after
bolts & nuts have some slob or lash in
them. Final adjustments is
made after the counter nuts is
It usually takes
about two minutes only to find the
setting". With a little trial & error you
would/must be able to adjust the tension, to your own liking.
One good advise though, IF IT AIN'T
BROKE, DON'T FIX IT!
"tension/jam screws" on the newer
production rests (2008).
The newer production rests (from the 4th
production/2008) have two other "jam screws",
located on the bottom of the coaxial
unit, at "6 o'clock" position. One jam
screw is located on the bottom front
part of the coaxial body, one other is located in
the "rear" sliding plate. These jam screws are
M6x1.0, headless allen screw. If
you slide the coaxial unit off from the
two posts, you would be able to see the
"front" jam screw. If
you remove the bottom cover plate, you
would be able to see the "rear" jam
screw as well.
You can tighten / loosen these jam screws
to add / reduce the tightness of the
bearings. (use 3mm metric allen wrench).
It's easy/easier to adjust the jam
screws than to adjust the 4
tension screws - as long as the 4 tension
screws make proper compression, or set
properly. (i.e. not too tight, not too
12. What type of bearings do you use in
the SEB rest?
There are two spherical bearings
in the SEB rest. I intentionally choose
spherical plain bearings with bronze
liner, since they are more smoother than
"steel on steel" bearings, or bearings
with PTFE liner. At least, based
on some bearings that I get locally.
The "front" bearing is press
the slot/hole on the "front part" of the
coaxial body. The "rear" bearing is
press fitted into the slot/hole of the
"rear sliding plate". The center shaft is
steel epoxy glued into the "front"
I usually punch (prick) the bearings at
6 and 12 o'clock position, right
between the conjunction of the bronze
liner and the outer housing of the bearings. Reason is,
because most after market spherical
bearings are usually too loose, even
they are press fitted very tightly into the
housing. With this way, I also make
the joystick operation to be more
smoother, to have more "solid" feel, with no slob/lash
in its movements.
It can also resist more
vertical weight in the same time.
Both of the two bearings are in metric size, ID of 8mm,
OD of 22mm, and 9mm